The Wintergarden Taste Edit: Matt Shea on The Fire & Flair of San Telmo

San Telmo is the city’s vibrant, ember-lit heartbeat. Nestled on Edward Street, this Argentinian institution has brought a new energy to the Brisbane dining scene, defined by the warm, wood-fired aroma of charcoal, the art of the communal feast, and an undeniable charm that invites you to pull up a chair and stay a while.

In this instalment of the Wintergarden Taste Edit, food writer Matt Shea heads into the kitchen with chef and co-owner Mikey Dalton to uncover the soul of the parrilla. From the custom-built charcoal grill that dictates the rhythm of the room to the philosophy of shared plates that makes a night here feel like a celebration, this is an inside look at a restaurant that has mastered the balance between high-end precision and the raw, convivial joy of Argentinian cooking.

San Telmo feels like it arrived in Brisbane at the perfect time. After spending 15 years in Melbourne helping familiarise Australians with Argentinian cuisine, the country has finally caught up.

It meant what landed in Brisbane in June was about as well-realised as restaurants get.

The dining room echoes the Melbourne original without repeating it. The comfy booth dining is present and correct, as is the clever sound treatment that means a buzzy night never gets obnoxious. But it arguably communes better both with the kitchen, and passers-by outside via the sizeable windows overlooking an Edward Street dining precinct that’s come alive in recent years.

The service is relaxed and smiling but precise, with a clutch of staff making the move north with co-partners chef Mikey Dalton and restaurant manager Ben Robinson.

Still, what people are really coming for is the food, the cornerstone of which is the expansive Argentinian-style parrilla grill custom built for the restaurant. Dalton reckons between 70 and 80 percent of the menu passes over the charcoal (currently mangrove) that fuels the grill.

You might eat fried provolone cheese with red chimichurri; grilled king prawns with aji molida (crushed dried chilli peppers) and capers; or a half Elgin Valley chicken with lemon pepper and thyme.

Still, most folks are coming for beef, which is sourced from various suppliers around the country. There’s a 250-gram O’Connor’s Premium pasture-fed hanger steak; a 250-gram, 4-5 score Stockyard MBS tenderloin; and an O’Connor’s Premium pasture-fed rib eye, among others.

To match the food there’s an Argentina-angled 150-ish bottle wine list, with some of the bins exclusive to San Telmo. There’s also a tight menu of classic and signature cocktails, and plenty of imported vermouth.

We sat down with Dalton to find out more about why San Telmo hits the mark with Australian diners.

What do you think people expect when they come to San Telmo? What keeps them coming back?

Mikey Dalton: The food, the consistency of service, the vibe. People are quite surprised sometimes. You can see the surprise on their face as they walk in and they’re realising, ‘Oh! this is pretty cool.’

You guys describe San Telmo as an Argentinian steakhouse. Australians love their steakhouses, so what’s different about an Argentinian steakhouse?

MD: First and foremost, it’s the parrilla, which is the main focus of an Argentinian steakhouse. Charcoal cooking front and centre, and you can’t miss it. It’s the heartbeat of the restaurant, really. It’s also the general aesthetic, the Old World charm of the place.

What makes the dishes here so special? How do they reflect the attitude of the restaurant?

MD: What we’re all about at San Telmo is that sharing philosophy. So you get in there, everyone gets stuck in, and then immediately you’re into that convivial atmosphere, which drives the atmosphere of the dining room.

San Telmo’s been around for 15 years down south and in that time Australians have become familiar with Argentinian food. Did this feel like the ideal time to open in Brisbane?

MD:  I think Brisbane’s always been ready for us, especially in the last five years because it took us so long to find [a suitable premises]. They’ve definitely accepted us so Argentinian cooking is here to stay, I think.